Del Cambio’s chef publishes “Iconic Similitudes”: 32 stories for 32 dishes, with illustrated tables by Edoardo Maria Manuguerra from Manetti Editore. He warns: “Don’t expect recipes, but the story of how these and mine were born.”
“I’m making myself a martini and chewing some salty grasshoppers, sitting on the edge of a red earth pit. If I see the strange people here, they seem to be in Woodstock and then they speak a language…I don’t understand c…! That video call isn’t working! The system doesn’t interact with your phones: 10G is already there, what can you tell me? Did I need it?». Of course we’ll need Bob Noto, and we all still want him here. To wow us, embarrass us, open up worlds for us, and tickle our taste buds. We will need him so much, and he will give us so much joy and admiration that Matteo Baronetto, one of his “sons,” grandchildren, heirs or whatever, wrote him a dummy phone call to present his second book, “Iconic,” 350 copies were released, signed by Maritti Edor. It was dedicated to Bob, Turin gastronomic expert, talent finder, brilliant graphic designer, inventor of food photography when social networks weren’t in sight, and who died prematurely in 2017. There’s also an introduction to star Spanish chef Andoni Luis Aduriz. Similitudes are tasting menus Chef Del Cambio, «It is not just a restaurant. 263 years of history T The weight of my shoulders. He is the one who outlives me.”
It looks like an art book. Is this true?
«Indeed, yes, also to the choice of the publishing house. I felt, around the month of November, that I should prepare a book along the lines of that of Henri Peel which I had bought in Luxembourg and which I am collecting. I did not want to go down the usual path: recipe, beautiful photography and so on. I don’t care about that tournament.”
So what kind of book is it?
“There are 32 according to me defined as ‘iconic’. But don’t expect weights, operations, and none of that. I tell the story of their birth, the moment of their birth, tales. It is designed for my colleagues, to give them suggestions, to put in their libraries and give them joy, there is a lot of color.”
You are throwing away the dictates of modern food: photography.
“It is always part of the changing paths. I thought it was time to go back to the base, to the banner, to the landmarks. I was very fond of the idea of engineering and wanted to point to the future, with the graphic designer of the publishing house we worked in this direction ».
Is it part of a book that summarizes your career?
“More than anything else that represents me, it shows who I am.”
Who is Matteo Baronetto?
“Eternal child. I still love to enjoy what I do in the kitchen. I love my craft and a big lover of art. I think the world is changing thanks to poets and philosophers. And to the artists.
“Zucchini and avocado, steamed together, look great.”
What art do you like?
“I like going to museums. I would be trite, but for me the greatest are Modigliani, Fontana, Piero Manzoni. Between Torreñez, Mangione and Mondino.
Of these 32 dishes, which one is most closely related to you?
“Kidneys with sea urchins. I have a clear memory of when he was born. I was in Milan (from Cracow, so) and the first customer was crazy about this set. Then it was Bob’s turn, who told me he hadn’t eaten such a kidney since the time of Alan Chapel. I loved the chapel. It was 2004 or 2005 and it wasn’t a dish designed for beauty, which will soon become a beacon of reference for food and beyond. Social networks have been a long way off, and the core is still essential.”
Will cooking become a sustainable human occupation?
“When I was a boy I worked, like no one else, like a beast and the freedom to learn. Young people today, rightly, want to learn and also live. Especially after what happened in the epidemic. In the future I imagine kitchens with a ‘brain trainer’ ».